I will be using a torque wrench and torquing bolts to 11 ft lbs on first pass and 22 ft lbs on second pass. I already cleaned up the bolts and plan on cleaning up the bolt holes in the engine with an m8x1.25 thread restorer, and then not putting any sealant or compound on the bolts or metal gaskets unless someone can enlighten me and tell me what type of compound should be put on the water pump bolts. I'm assuming that they really don't contact the coolant and don't need any sealant, but I wasn't positive and figured i'd ask. (examples of both provided very at end of post) I searched the gen III engine forums and I found conflicting information saying the water pump bolts were blind holes that don't contact any coolant, as well as people saying they were actually in contact with the coolant and you should use a thread sealant. I'm using a new AC Delco 252-846 water pump and the newer LS2 style thermostat housing ACDelco 15-11057. I'm in the middle of a water pump replacement and I wanted to confirm that the water pump bolts do not go through the coolant passage and do not require any thread sealant. Please register or login to enable Dark Mode.Hot Rod Power Tour/ Pump Gas Drags/ Drag Week.Gen 5 Camaro Tuning, Diagnostics, Dyno results. I'm going to be starting a new thread because I have a bunch of questions about what I'll be doing, stay tuned. I'm going to now have to accelerate putting the Special on the road so I can park the Trep for some TLC. The new belt and belt tensioner quieted the motor down some too which was nice. With that said, the car is back together and running fine. But worst, the threads in the housing for the t-belt tensioner are now damaged. I ended up breaking the bottom bolt on the bottom t-belt cover. The last problem, probably most major one, is that my oil pump assembly needs to be replaced. The timing belt tensioner pulley also needs replacement since it has some play in it, it's got the same amount of time on it as the old water pump. Also, my t-belt housing to block seals were leaking. You could feel some play in the pump's impeller shaft. Turns out I have a much bigger problem on my hands now. when it wasn't full of coolant residue!Ĭlick to expand.You're right, I love it! It made bleeding the system a lot easier and mess-less. Buying car parts at regular price up here is just crazy. They give me the "trades person's" discount which is quite a lot of money. So the question is, what would pump would you go for?Īnd for those wondering why I'm stuck on CarQuest. It was only available with the t-belt component kit but they want 320$ for that one, F-that! I asked about getting a Gates pump, it was nearly impossible to get through CarQuest. The fact that the brand of the CarQuest pump wasn't clearly known is kind of scary. At the moment, I'm leaning towards the factory pump even with my bad experience. Both have a one year warranty, both are new. The other option is another factory pump for 140$ or so. Options right now are an aftermarket, made in the USA pump, from CarQuest for 100$ aprox. Anyways, I can't say I'm impressed with it leaking but it needs to be fixed, I need the car. This was back in August of '08, so about 3.5 years ago. At a 160k km(100k miles) I replaced my water pump, belt and tensioner with a gates belt and tensioner but a Mopar pump, pictured bellow. Upon further investigation(removing the t-belt cover) I noticed a nice mess of dried coolant, great. So last weekend while doing some maintenance on the car I noticed that I had some coolant running down the front of the engine.
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